It’s not always a good idea to visit a restaurant a couple of days after it opens.
But after seeing the buzz on the Business Now website about Newark’s Churrascaria Saudades, we decided to pay a visit.
The opening of the restaurant had been delayed for months. That’s not unusual in the business, but it led to some talk that the concept might not fly in the college town. It now appears the owners were working to “get it right.”
Their effort brings us the promise of a worthy addition to a vibrant Newark dining scene, especially on the once desolate east end of the city.
Saudades is located at the Newark Shopping Center, which is undergoing a makeover, but could still use some tenants for its vacant spaces in a center once included a larger selection of restaurants that came and went over the decades.
One big advantage is free and convenient parking, although an after dinner stroll down Main Street would be a good idea after loading up on all that meat.
Brazilian steakhouses are not the easiest restaurants to operate, but during our first visit, Saudades passed easily passed muster.
The staff is warm and friendly and the pleasant, modern décor positions the establishment as an occasion restaurant. The noise level can be a little high, but that’s common on Saturday nights.
The Brazilian steakhouse concept that has spread across the nation in the last decade or so consists of a large salad bar and “Gaucho” servers who bring beef, pork and chicken offerings on skewers.
Chances for slip-ups are many in this format, with possibilities ranging from unkempt salad bars to overcooked and under-seasoned beef. There are also grill back-ups that leave diners inpatient and gaucho servers coming all at once with their offerings.
In all areas, Saudades excelled, including the salad bar. Many of us cringe at the thought of this relic of the 1980s and low-end buffets, but the presentation and quality were first-rate. Offerings included, cheese, cold cuts, as well as salmon. A couple of fruit items would have been welcome.
The beef is a big attraction, with the star of the table, a Brazilian specialty known as Picanha. The cut of beef is flavorful and well seasoned. The same can be said of the sirloin and the filet.
The high-quality pork was on the dry side and the sausage was well seasoned, but a tad tough. We did not have enough room for the chicken and we did not see any lamb. Again, it was the second day.
The protein offerings are accompanied by garlic mash potatoes, polenta and sweetened bananas.
The price point, $45 is a bit on the high end for Newark, but reflects a commitment to high-quality beef. Reviews of Brazilian steakhouses with lower prices tend to be less favorable. In other words, you get what you pay for.
By way of comparison, the highly rated Fogo de Chao in Center City Philadelphia charges $53. You can also add another $20 or so for sales tax and valet parking.
Rodizio, a lower-priced chain with a restaurant in a town center in Voorhees, NJ charges $35 for dinner and has fewer stars.
Overall, Saudades, whose owners include a family from Middletown with Brazilian roots, is a good value. The $45 leaves some room for pricing promotions that can draw more first-timers from a wider area.
We wish Saudades, the best and plan another visit before long.
Churrascaria Saudades is open seven days a week for dinner. Reservations can be made online.
